jueves, 10 de mayo de 2012

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Step by Step! (Shoe Making)

 




*Disclaimer:  I had to write and explain about shoe making process in a way how I am doing it.  There are other ways or process from different shoe industries.


I felt that I wanted to learn more about shoes.  (yes, there are million things to still learn!)  It’s disappointing that I did not get the shoe knowledge I wanted from a reputable fashion school I was enrolled to.  I just tried to let it go since I am so done and over it. (But still, fashion school SHOULD NOT offer any course unless there is an EXPERT to handle it!) Fail!  A total waste of my money and time.


Seven Points of Reference in Shoe Pattern

Anyway, that didn’t stop me from trying to learn the steps of making shoes and step by step creating my shoe story.  I had an intensive training with a shoe engineer from Philippine Footwear Federation Inc.  Sir Noel Box is truly a shoe expert.  He was the one who trained the shoe master-  Brian Tenorio. 


I learned the steps of making shoes rigorously.  From designing to pattern making to executing it.  And yes, it’s NOT easy and definitely way too challenging!


1.    Sketch/Design.  This is the essential.  I think and imagine the shoes I want.  I draw and put color on it.  I get inspirations from different moods and my own shoe story.  I decide on materials and try to visualize how it will look like.  I research the heels, leather, and shoe accessory to be used.

my creative shoe sketches

2.    Transfer my creative shoe design to a more technical sketch.  No color.  And this time with measurements.


3.    Shoe Patterns.  I find this stage the hardest.  If my shoe patterns and measurements go wrong, shoe won’t turn the way I want it.  So I acquaint myself with Algebra and Trigonometry again.  Oh yeah, shoe making has Math and I don’t have no excuse not to compute.  There are different methods in shoe pattern making. 


Basic pattern is to construct in from shoe last. (Using tracing paper this time.  The shoe last mummified method won’t give exact measurements.)
I always measure the shoe last I will use for my prototype. I use my shoe last molded in my shoe size so I can always wear the prototype I make.  Note: Different shoe last for different types of shoes.


Technical sides are now present.  The Counter Point, Vamp Point and Standard Last Length  are always the important ones to remember.  And again, computations are mandatory! Urgghh!!:(


Creating Standard and Mean Forme- there are other methods of producing a mean forme.  It is basically the average of inside and outside forms.  The reason for producing a mean forme is that it is needed for the next stage in pattern cutting. (standard construction)  There are also sectional patterns or the working patterns which are produced for every part of the upper.


And there are still more steps in shoe patterns.  From drawing lines to making patterns for upper and lining parts.  Of course, putting lasting and stiffener allowance is necessary!
I cannot just list all the steps for shoe pattern making as those are highly technical. Believe me, nosebleed! Waaahhh!!!

These should be considered in constructing patterns:
 
·         Movement of upper during lasting; effects upon the shape and positioning of seams and upper features
·         Foot anatomy (position of prominent bones and joints)
·         Creating sections which will make efficient use of materials (para hindi masayang ang leather)
·         Allowance to be added
·         Foot entry for sufficient opening and adjustment (baka nakalabas pala yung pinky toe. Haha!)
Leather Swatches
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4.    Transferring to leather.  All paper patterns made will be traced and transferred to the leather to be used.  Of course, my favorite part is cutting every section (like the vamp, quarter and counter)  Gusto ko naggugupit!:)


5.    Glue/Pasting.  This is my least favorite. I hate using anything sticky!  I use my finger not the brush so I can point the right portions to be glued.  Rubber cement and adhesive (shoe glue) are being used.


6.    This part is the sewing or stitching of lining.  This is my break! As I don’t sew leather so I leave it to the experts! :)


7.    Shoe construction. (almost halfway. Haha)
There are 3 methods of construction: 
 
a.    - Cemented (Direct Stuck) construction using pre-finished soles
b.    - Cemented construction  using soles requiring finished on the shoe
c.    - Moulded Construction


 
Ten Tacks Rule in Lasting
Suede Court shoes

8.   Prototype- this is the time I will wear my model shoe to be made in different sizes and colors. (yey!)  Checking the weight of the shoes; (the standard weight of shoes should be 9 to 11 ounce ONLY or back problems will occur. I love heavier shoes anyway!); checking all
the shoe details in its right positioning; checking the fit and the stand of heel (if it’s         balance or it won’t break)  
 Note:  heel and shoe form should be considered in the early stage of pattern making.


There is still more technical stuff in shoe making.  These are just the basic.  It also depends on the types of shoes to be made.
As of now, I am still working on my shoe designs and construction.  Learning the process step by step and trying my very best to come up with fabulous shoe collections.  I’m getting there! (almost)

Almost done with my oxfords!:)

P.S. I realized how happy I am doing it!  Maybe I was a shoe in my past life. Haha
with Cari-Dawn


These  articles was established  by VERsatil  TEAM

Cheers,


Posted by shoesandsenses at 7:32 AM
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